Facial massage at home: step by step

What a facial massage can and cannot do

The German health publication Apotheken Umschau describes short-term effects: massage tools can stimulate circulation, so the skin looks a little plumper and rosier for a few minutes. It reports a small study from 2018 in which a five-minute massage increased blood flow, but the effect lasted only about ten minutes. One of the study authors worked for a manufacturer of massage rollers, and the company covered part of the costs. That belongs in the picture.

The dermatologist Yael Adler, quoted in the same article, says that no independent studies exist for these tools and that no lasting effects have been found. According to her, wrinkles, lines and sagging areas stay; no massage tool can rebuild collagen. A systematic review exists on facial exercises (not on massage) and considers the evidence insufficient (Revista CEFAC, 2024). It dealt with exercises for the facial muscles, not with massage from the outside.

What remains is an experience: you take your time, feel your face and settle down. Beyond that experience, nothing is proven.

Preparation

• Clean hands and tools. Wash your hands. If you use a roller or a gua sha stone, clean it before use so that no bacteria are spread (Apotheken Umschau).
• Cleanse your face. Remove make-up and leftover care products first.
• Choose a glide. In Apotheken Umschau, the dermatologist Yael Adler advises against oil as a glide, because it can strip fats from the skin, and names a cream or an ointment instead, for example with shea butter. Choose a product you tolerate well anyway.
• Watch for fragrance. According to Yael Adler, fragrances, dyes and other irritants can get deeper into the upper skin layer under firm pressure and may trigger a contact allergy. If your skin tends to react, choose a fragrance-free product.
• Time and place. Five quiet minutes, a comfortable seat.

  Tip from Luljeta Dine

  rest your elbows on a table.

Six steps to try

The sequence below is a tip from Luljeta Dine for everyday life. A particular order or direction is not proven to work better.

1. Forehead. Place your fingertips in the middle of the forehead and stroke gently outwards towards the temples. Three to five times.
2. Temples. Make small, calm circles with the fingertips and very light pressure.
3. Eye area. The skin here is thin. Touch it with your ring finger only and with so little pressure that the skin barely moves. If you are unsure, skip this step.
4. Cheeks. Stroke with flat fingers from the side of the nose across the cheek towards the ear.
5. Jaw and chin. Stroke from the chin along the jawline to the ear. Keep your lower jaw loose and your teeth apart.
6. Finish. Rest your palms on your face for a moment and breathe out and in slowly two or three times.

Pressure and time

The rule of thumb is less pressure than you think. The skin should move slightly with your fingers; you do not pull or rub. According to Apotheken Umschau, too much pressure and overstretching can damage the skin, especially older skin and skin already damaged by sun or cortisone. The 2024 review mentions in its introduction the assumption that excessive manipulation or massage of the skin can increase the loss of elasticity. The authors give this as an assumption, not as a result of their analysis.

As for duration, the study that Apotheken Umschau mentions worked with five minutes, and the suggestion here follows it. An ideal duration or fixed frequency is not proven. A short ritual in the evening fits well with, for example, the evening ritual in ten minutes.

When to skip the massage

• During an acute inflammation, Apotheken Umschau advises against using massage tools. That is a good reason to pause the massage with your fingers too.
• With injuries or open, sore patches you leave the skin alone. This is a precaution.
• If redness, burning or itching appears after the massage you stop. This is also a precaution.

According to Gesundheitsinformation.de, a contact allergy typically shows as an eczema with swelling, itching and dry skin, usually one to three days after contact. Common triggers include fragrances, essential oils, metals such as nickel, adhesives and certain plants.

When to see a doctor

See your general practitioner or a dermatologist if skin changes do not fade, if you notice pain, swelling, weeping or crusted areas, if you suspect an allergy, or if you have an existing skin condition. The German Dermatological Society (DDG) offers a search for dermatologists. This text gives no diagnosis and does not replace a medical visit.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I massage my face? A fixed frequency is not proven. Do it as often as it does you good and your skin stays calm.

Do I need a roller or gua sha? No. As an alternative, Yael Adler names your own fingers or the back of a spoon in Apotheken Umschau. Whether an expensive tool is worth it is for each person to decide.

Does facial massage help against wrinkles? That is not reliably shown. The dermatologist Yael Adler says in Apotheken Umschau that there are no independent studies on massage tools and no lasting effects.

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